Bangkok, Thailand - Day 1

Before I came to Bangkok I heard the same comment from several people - it's a great city but a few days is enough. I understand that statement a little better now. Bangkok is a fabulous city and a wonderful place to go to understand the contrast with the rest of Thailand. With that greatness there is also a LOT of people, pets, boats, smog, mopeds, etc.

On our first day we took a tour of the Grand Palace. My first impression was that I had never seen so many ornate, jeweled structures in one place that went together so well without being gaudy or overbearing. It is impossible the capture the grandioseness in pictures, even though we tried! Here is a link to virtual tours if interested: http://palaces.thai.net/night/index_gp.htm

The palace, built in 1782 during Rama I's reign, was the official residence of the king of Thailand until the mid- 20th century. The complex holds buildings and statues with Thai, Cambodian, and Chinese design. Our guide taught us how to identify each of these.

Thai: Very detailed and decorated with gemstone like colors

Cambodian: Primary colors are mostly used and

many structures are corn shaped

Chinese: Pastel colors and florals are seen on ceramic detailing

(seen on the tiling behind the statue)

The most famous building is The Chapel Royal that holds The Emerald Buddha; the most visited and revered effigy in Thailand. The Buddha is actually made of green jade and dressed in gold. One of my favorite discoveries was the Emerald Buddha has three outfits - one for the rainy season, one for the hot season, and one for the cold season.

I was shocked by the smallness of the statue. The altar it is set upon is a lavishly adorned tower but the Buddha itself is only 45 centimeters tall. Regardless, it is clear that what it represents commands absolute respect and adoration by Buddhists and those who are fortunate enough to take their shoes off and come inside the temple. Upon existing the temple we stood in line to bless ourselves in the holy water with a lotus flower. Although the visitors are a mixed bunch of Thai Buddhists and tourists from many nations and religions it seemed to be an understood, special place.

Visiting the Palace makes it evident how integral Buddhism is to Thai culture. Approximately 95 percent of the population is Buddhist. All men are required to be monks for at least 1-3 months in their late teens or early twenties. Due to the simplicity of their lives the monks possess no money and even if they did people can not accept it from them. Instead, Buddhists give offerings to the temples and monks in the form of money, food, shampoo, and any other items needed for daily life. Since these offerings are so common and a form of veneration one can find 'offering buckets' already prepared. It was so interesting to go into a 7-11 convenience store and see the usual sodas, snacks, and trinkets as well as prepared offering buckets for monks. I likened them to the care packages college kids get.

My Western accustomed eyes had a hard time getting used to seeing monks in their saffron robes out in the cities. While I realize seeing a monk in Thailand is as common as seeing a tween wearing Abercrombie & Fitch in the US, every time I saw them I thought it was just fantastic. The monk is riding the subway! The monk is checking in for his flight! The monk is carrying a shopping bag! The monk is fixing his bike! I know, ridiculous. But sometimes the most common place of one society is the most engaging to another. Yet the common place is what makes the amazement comprehensible and admirable.

Next we took a boat through the canals of Bangkok. After a morning in the sun, even with a tour guide mandated umbrella, the wind and water were a welcome change. Bangkok is a bustling, modern city but the river still provides a livelihood and home to many people. The fish on the river have a good life for the time they live it. The temples on the canal have signs that ask you to feed the fish for good luck if you are visiting or just passing by. It is prohibited to fish near these temples. Ironically, outside those perimeters fisherman are waiting for the well-fed fish.

For lunch, shopping, and some general people watching we headed to Chatuchak Weekend Market. This place is known be the most extensive market in Thailand and probably tops that of most countries. The common saying is that if you can't find what you are looking for at JJ Market (its common name) then you can't find it in Thailand. Everything from bunnies, spices, brooms, herbal cures, and clothing is available.

Here we saw some very sad sites, as many beggars and impoverished children come to this populated area. However, our spirits were lifted when we spotted a little Thai boy giggling while his dad cooled his Buddha belly off with an ice cube.

We had a pretty hilarious adventure trying to get to dinner this evening. Several guide books and a few people had recommended a restaurant to us called Cabbages and Condoms. Because we had seen the restaurant advertised so much we didn't think we needed to have the exact address - wrong. After trying to explain where we were going to two tuk-tuk drivers and one taxi driver we decided that the general vicinity was good enough. Finding a restaurant with a name like that can lead to awkward situations as drivers are trying to ask fellow drivers where the the location is.

Anyway, we finally arrived. The restaurant was started in part to promote better understanding and acceptance of family planning and to generate income to support various development activities of the Population and Community Development Association (PDA). Not shockingly, their slogan is "Our food is guaranteed not to cause pregnancy". The food was possibly one of the best meals we had in Thailand. We started the meal with purple dumplings - we still aren't sure what they were, but they were magnificent. The ambiance, decorated with what you would accept, was quite clever.